EGG SALAD GROWS UP: THE 40 YEAR-OLD-VIRGIN / EUROPANE

Virgin

It’s hard to find a sandwich that inspires more ambivalence than the lowly egg-salad, reviled by school children as gelatinous chunks plopped between sodden bread and enveloped in a sulfurous cloud, and viewed by squadrons of office workers as the epitome of brown-bagged humdrum. And yet, at a tiny, clattery bakery/café on an unpromising stretch near the bland overdevelopment of Pasadena’s Colorado Boulevard, is Europane.