THE SANDWICH OF FORGOTTEN DREAMS: DINER / TOP ROUND ROAST BEEF

Diner

Few things food-wise are more comforting than a perfect roast beef sandwich: tender rosy meat, sliced wafer-thin and generously layered, soothing in its faintly warm mineral blandness, slicked with creamy aromatic horseradish that spikes into sharpness, tamed by a pillowy weck roll that absorbs the beefy juices.

BURGER BATTLE ROYALE: PULP FICTION / FATHER’S OFFICE

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On the endless best burger lists in LA several names come up time and again: the ubiquitous Umami burger, Apple Pan, Pie ‘n Burger, sometimes Plan Check and sometimes 26 Beach Restaurant, and frequently Comme Ça, Lucky Devils, and Golden State. These vaunted burger shrines represent two factions between which a tension sizzles.